Day 20 - Delft

Today was interesting (aren't they all in their own ways?).  When I first woke up, it was pouring rain outside, which was actually quite nice to look at and hear against the roof and windows.  I'm on the highest floor - level 5 - and the walls of my room actually slant with the roof, plus it was nice to look out at the park getting drenched.  It was not nice, however, to imagine that as the prospect of my entire day, for which I had planned to visit Delft.  I curled back up into bed for awhile, deliberating on switching my plans for today and tomorrow, but in the end when I re-awoke, the rain had curbed some. 

 

It was drizzling when I set out for the tram to Hollands Spoor Station, where I then switched to the tram that runs from Scheveningen to Delft.  The ride was not too long, and I got out at Delft Station, where there was a lot of construction.  It was crowded, busy with vehicles, bikes, and pedestrians, and none of the crosswalk lights were working.  I didn't have my bearings, so I just walked where it felt right, and eventually I got on the right track towards the University.  TU Delft, or the Technical University of Delft, is a prominent school in the Netherlands, and practically THE school in the Netherlands for architecture.  They offer undergrad degrees in architecture and graduate degrees with various concentrations (housing, urban planning, computation, etc.).  Before my trip I had attempted to contact various people at the university about my research.  Unfortunately, the European schools have different semester schedules than we do in the US and they are right at the tail end of their semester now, so everyone is at the peak of their busy time.  I also tried contacting the International Office to see if I could get more information about potentially applying for their Masters programme, and they told me to visit their office in person.  When I did, they were less than helpful, telling me all of the information was online.  Yes, thanks, I've seen that.  I guess I can't fault them too much, since the unhelpful people are just office staff and not faculty or architects themselves, so I guess I have to suspend judgment.  

What was helpful was milling around the building, getting to peek into some of the studios and even chat with some of the students.  It was a real throwback, even though the setting was not like the Greene building at all.  There were some similar things though, such as students building models in the hallway (though the hallway looked like it was designed for that purpose).  Actually, this building was recently renovated to hold the school of architecture after a fire in 2008 destroyed the previous building.  A bunch of Dutch architects banded together to have it ready in a small amount of time. 

It was interesting to see their way of working, but I don't think I could get my Master's there, even though they say you can do it in English, most people speak Dutch in the hallways, and it's really a "Dutch club."  It carries over into practice as well, which is understandable.  Since the country is so compact all of the Dutch architects know each other and typically only hire other Dutch architects, or young people who graduated from Delft.  I guess you can find that in pockets anywhere you go, because as it is, architecture is a small world.  What I am finding, however, is that I am missing some international leverage, despite being on a fellowship from a good university.  RPI is not as well known in other countries including NL, although most architects I've spoken to over here do know Evan Douglis, the current dean at RPI.  In order to make their ears really perk up, to get their attention, and sadly for them to even begin to take you seriously, you have to drop the name of one of the main universities, yes, the Ivys.  Columbia, Harvard, Yale, Princeton, and also MIT.  Once you attend any of those, you're opened a new world of connections and potential opportunities - doesn't even matter if you did well or not.  It's all in the name, sad as it is.  Of course I already knew all of this, but I'm just experiencing it even more now.  Oh well, to think more about later.

I continued on throughout the university campus, which did have a distinct campus feel to it as opposed to some others I've visited, especially in the US.  Came across some really great buildings spanning the ages.  The Geotechnology building was pretty interesting, as was the student union.  The most incredible building, however, was the TU Delft library designed by Mecanoo.  It was essentially the project that put them on the map.  It was, and I'm not exaggerating, one of the best buildings I've ever been inside or outside.  Its presence from the exterior is very smart as well, including a large sloping green roof with the entrance directly across from the student center.  From the opposite elevation at the road the library has a distinct presence with a large glass façade that is broken up so you can see the program from outside.  From the exterior something that looks a little strange is the conical shape protruding from the center.  From the interior you understand, however, that it is essentially a large skylight that booleans downward, with the radius increasing as the floors get lower.  That way you get an ample amount of natural light without sitting next to a wall, and being right in the center of the building.  Really smart moves here.  There were a ton of students utilizing the space, and it seemed like a productive and pleasant place to study (if there is such a thing!).  

Anyway, after that I set out to see some student housing by various architects.  They had the same type of colored container box housing, only in a slightly different arrangement.  After I saw that stuff, I wanted to head back to the city center which I had not yet experienced.  On my way, I stopped at the original Delft Blue Pottery factory.  There's some really beautiful pieces that are only authentic if they are made right in Delft and handpainted.  I would come to find out, all throughout the city there are bits of Delftware, including on lightposts and sidewalks.  Delft is also the town where Vermeer lived - where my favorite painting "The Little Street" is based. 

I made it into the city center and the whole vibe changed instantly.  Plenty of shops and cafes, and small canals with picturesque rowhouses.  At this point, the sun had begun to come out, which was nice.  I was starving so I got a delicious ham and cheese toasted sandwich.  I saw the Oude Kerk, the old church, which was austere but impressive, like the ones in Utrecht and Rotterdam, and even Den Haag.  Up farther I saw some contemporary housing, all located within a short distance from the quaint center.  

 

After a full day, I hopped back on the tram and arrived back in Den Haag.  Took a short break before heading out to the Hollands Spoor area to see some housing by Alvaro Siza.  It was in a weird area, too busy with trains and traffic, and weird people.  I didn't stay too long here, but then headed in the direction of the hotel, stopping once more at Albert Heijn for some Dutch spiced cookies that taste like softer gingersnaps, some frambos and appel juice (apple and raspberry), and these really tasty peanuty wafer cookies called kletskoppen.  They go well with tea or coffee. 

All in all it was another good day.  I wish things could have gone better at the University, and I wish that the lecture/talk at the NAI was still happening...still no word there but it's already too late.  Very strange.  Regardless, Delft charmed me with its small-town appeal.  I learned quite a lot today that will need time to process as well.  I can't think about my time here coming to a near close because I need to keep going, and will not be able to fully reflect until I return to the States.  I also don't want to get nostalgic or sad before it's even over!